Display inside the Museo Civico, Gubbio
I don’t like cold weather. My blood is Floridian by nature—anything below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C) makes me run for a cup of tea. But strangely, my heart warms in the chilly Italian winters. In fact, the frequent cloudy skies, the reflections in the wet stone streets from the rain, and the coldness of the old hilltop towns just seem to accentuate the history and art history that I so love in this land. And nowhere do I feel that more intensely than in the medieval city of Gubbio, perched on the slopes of the Appenine mountains in Umbria, Italy.
Roman Amphitheater, Gubbio
Gubbio’s roots go far deeper than the Middle Ages, and its origins go back to Prehistoric Man. When approaching Gubbio, however, you are reminded of another ancient presence in the town, the Romans. At the base of the town is one of the largest surviving Roman amphitheaters (built late 1st century BC), which is still used today as a backdrop for its summertime theatre.
Palazzo dei Consoli
On my last winter visit to Gubbio, it was a picture perfect day—the clouds had disappeared, the air was crisp, and the sun was shining brightly, illuminating the textures of the town. We sat outside in a café in the piazza admiring the magnificent crown of Gubbio, the Palazzo dei Consoli. The palace, built between 1332 and 1349, is the seat of the Museo Civico, and is an incredible piece of gothic architecture. As we entered the museum, it was as if the blast of the colder temperature of the old stone building instantaneously transported us into another world. A world that is long gone, of Etruscan coins and Roman statues, medieval polyptichs and centuries old hand painted pottery.
Madonna and Child with St. Peter and St. Paul.
Pietro Lorenzetti (about 1320)
Inside the museum, we were greeted by a painting by Pietro Lorenzetti. This artist from Sienna was one of the important early links in the development of art towards the Renaissance and away from the medieval style of icons and symbols. The triptych panel by the artist (above), along with the continued interaction with the Sienese school of painting, brought a new direction of drama and naturalism to the style of the medieval Gubbio artists. It may be difficult for us to see this development from our 21st century vantage point, but in those days, the art of Lorenzetti was considered “avante-garde”.
Ceramic Plate-Workshop of Mastro Giorgio
Museo Civico
Ceramic Shop, Gubbio
Gubbio has a long history of pottery making going back to the 14th Century. The majolica became famous primarily due to the glazing techniques and decorative patterns perfected by “Mastro Giorgio” (1472-1554), and was characterized by a ruby red lustre along with silver and gold glazing. The ceramics of his workshop made Gubbio, along with Deruta, the two major centers of “lustreware” in Central Italy. To this day, you will see ceramic shops following this tradition along the picturesque streets of the town.
Eugubine Tablets
Museo Civico
Close up of writings on Eugubine Tablet
Museo Civico
Wikipedia Commons
In spite of all the wonderful art that the Museo Civico houses, probably the most prized items in the museum’s collection are the Eugubine Tablets, a series of seven bronze tablets, dating back to the 3rd to 1st centuries BC. These tablets were written in the ancient Umbrian language, and have been extremely valuable to scholars in understanding both the language and the religious practices of the ancient people of Umbria.
If you would like to learn a little more about the Museo Civico, you can check out their website:
https://www.palazzodeiconsoli.it/en/
Do you have as much of a love of hand painted ceramics as I do? And what do you think of Medieval art?
I would love to hear your thoughts in the comment section below.
(Above photos, except when noted, taken by Diane Cardaci)